1Mark the post center on each footing top.

Use plumb bob dropped from the string crossing above (if strings still up), OR triangulate from adjacent footings using measured distances.

2Drill a single 1/2" hole at each post center mark.

• 1/2" SDS-Plus bit in the rotary hammer
• Drill depth: 4-1/2" to 5"
• This depth leaves about 1-1/4" of anchor threads sticking up above the concrete — enough to fit the ABA66Z base plate, washer, and nut on top
• Drilling slightly deeper than needed is fine — extra room at the bottom holds any residual dust
• Blow dust out with shop vac or compressed air

3Place the ABA66Z base plate over the drilled hole, then drive the anchor through both.

• Set the ABA66Z base plate on the concrete with its center hole lined up over the drilled hole
• Slide the base to fine-tune position over your post center mark (up to about 3/4" of adjustment in the slotted hole)
• Drop the 1/2" x 5-1/2" Torquemaster wedge anchor down through the base plate's center hole and into the drilled hole in the concrete
• The nut and washer come pre-assembled on top of the anchor from the factory — LEAVE THEM ON (they protect the threads during hammering)
• Tap the top of the nut with a hammer, driving the anchor down through the base and into the hole
• Stop when the base plate is flat against the concrete and about 1-1/4" of threads (including the nut) is above the base plate

4Tighten the nut to the specified torque.

• Use a torque wrench with 3/4" socket
• Target: 55-60 ft-lbs (industry standard for 1/2" wedge anchors)
• Check the packaging or instructions that came with your Torquemaster anchors — if the manufacturer specifies a different value, follow their spec
• Torqueing pulls the wedge up inside the anchor, expanding it against the concrete walls
• Anchor is now permanently locked in place

5Set the 360° laser at the top of the pool coping elevation.

• Position tripod centrally to the deck area with line-of-sight to all 9 footings
• Adjust tripod height until the laser line is level with the top of the pool coping
• Turn on laser, let it self-level
• The horizontal line now marks deck-top elevation at every footing — it drives both the rough cuts (this step) and the final cuts (Part C)

6Measure each footing and rough-cut its post to that measurement plus margin.

• At each footing, hold the tape on the ABA66Z saddle and measure up to the laser line — a rough number is fine (±1/2" doesn't matter here; precision comes later from marking in place)
• Rough post length = saddle-to-laser measurement + ~6"
• Each footing has its own 12' 6x6, so length is never a constraint — the rough cut only sheds weight and excess (a 12' 6x6 is ~120 lbs; a 4-6' rough post is half that)
• Label each post with its footing ID as you cut ("PSL" = pool-side-left, "BR" = back-right, etc.) — with 9 different lengths, mixups are easy
• Use the four-sided cut technique: mark all 4 faces with Speed Square, cut each face at full saw depth (~2-5/8"), finish the center with Sawzall
• Save the offcuts — lengths will vary, and they're free stock for curved-rim blocking and bench legs

8Install each rough-cut post into its ABA66Z saddle — completely.

• Match each labeled post to its footing (9 different lengths — check the label)
• Set the post into the U-saddle, notch-face arrow pointing the correct direction (consistent on all 9)
• Post bottom rests on the base plate (1" standoff above concrete)
• Plumb in both directions using the strap-on post level or a 4' level on two adjacent faces
• Drive Simpson SD10 × 2-1/2" screws (SD10212) through EVERY hole in the ABA66Z flanges — 8 screws per anchor
• Add temporary bracing: 2 × 2x4 diagonal braces per post (90° apart), one end screwed to the post mid-height, other end to a ground stake

9Mark each post where it needs to be cut.

• Tick the laser line directly on one face of the post with a pencil
• Measure DOWN 8-1/4" from that tick and make the cut mark
• Wrap the cut line around all 4 faces with a Speed Square — the wrapped line must close on itself back at the start (if it doesn't, re-square and re-mark)
• Repeat on all 9 posts. Each post's cut line will be at a different height off the ground (grade slopes) but all cut lines are at the SAME elevation — that's the point of marking off the laser

10Cut each standing post at its marked line using the four-sided technique.

• Verify the post is rigid (fully screwed and braced) before cutting
• Set circular saw to full depth (~2-5/8" max on the 2834-20)
• Cut face 1, move around the post: face 2, face 3, face 4, keeping the shoe registered on the marked line
• The uncut center (~1/4" square) finishes with Sawzall or handsaw
• The cut lands around chest height on most posts — comfortable working height, but keep two hands on the saw and stand clear of the falling offcut

11Cut the notch on each standing post.

• Mark the notch outline on the marked beam-side face: from the post top, measure DOWN 7-1/4" and square a line across that face — this is the notch shoulder
• Set circular saw to max depth (~2-5/8") and cut the horizontal shoulder line — this cut is at chest height and easy to control
• Make a series of horizontal kerf cuts every 1/2" from the shoulder up to the post top, across the notch face
• Knock out the kerfed waste with chisel and hammer
• Clean the notch shoulder (bottom) and back wall flat with the chisel

The saw only cuts 2-5/8" deep; finish the last 3/8" of notch depth with chisel or handsaw to get the full 3" depth.

1Cut 2 pieces of 2x8 PT for each of the 3 beams (6 pieces total).

• You have 4 pieces of 2x8×16' (Order #1) for 2 beams (2 plies × 2 beams = 4 pieces)
• Plus 2 pieces of 2x8×14' (Order #1) for the third beam (2 plies × 1 beam = 2 pieces)
• Target beam length after cutting: ~14'-8" (10'-8" post-to-post + 2'-0" cantilever each end)
• The 16' pieces have plenty of length to cut down to 14'-8" (trim 1'-4")
• The 14' pieces are 8" SHORT of a full 14'-8" beam. Options: (a) reduce that beam's cantilever to 1'-8" each side (total 14'), or (b) use asymmetric cantilevers (2' + 1'-4")
• Use Speed Square for square cuts

2Sight along each 2x8 to find its natural crown (bow).

• Look along the length of the board from one end — you'll see a slight bow (concave on one edge, convex on the other)
• The "crown" is the convex edge — the one that bows upward when the concave edge is down
• Mark the crown side with an arrow pointing UP toward the crown
• Both plies get installed with the crown facing UP
• Over time, deck load will flatten the crown, leaving the beam straight rather than sagging

3Screw the two 2x8s together face-to-face.

• Lay both 2x8s face-to-face on sawhorses, both crowns pointing UP, top edges flush, ends flush
• Chalk two horizontal lines down the length of the beam face:
  • Top row: 2" down from the top edge of the beam
  • Bottom row: 2" up from the bottom edge of the beam
  • (For a 7-1/4" tall 2x8, these two rows will be ~3-1/4" apart)
• Mark screw positions along each row:
  • Top row: mark positions at 0", 16", 32", 48"... every 16" along the length
  • Bottom row: mark positions offset by 8" from the top row: 8", 24", 40", 56"... every 16"
  • The result is a zig-zag pattern — screws alternate between the two rows every 8"
• Drive #10 x 2-1/2" screws at each marked position
• At each end of the beam: 2 extra screws concentrated in the last 6" (one in top row, one in bottom row, closer together than the 16" spacing)

4Lift each 2-ply beam onto the 3 notched posts of its column.

• Two people minimum (beam weighs ~90 lbs)
• Position beam so it drops into the notches on all 3 posts
• Beam bottom rests on the notch shoulder (bottom of notch)
• Beam ends extend 2'-0" past outer posts (pool-side and back)

5Use laser or level to verify beam top is level along its length.

• Sweep laser along the beam top
• All 3 post positions should show the beam at the same elevation
• Small variances (up to 1/8") can be shimmed with hardwood shims in the notch
• Larger variances mean a post is at wrong height — address before bolting

6At each post, drill and install 2 through-bolts.

• Work on the "back side" of the post — the face opposite the notch opening, where the solid 2-1/2" of post material remains behind the beam
• Mark bolt locations on this back face:
  • Top bolt: 2" down from the top edge of the beam
  • Bottom bolt: 2" up from the bottom edge of the beam
  • (Bolts end up about 3-1/4" apart vertically)
• Drill a 1/2" hole all the way through: post material (2-1/2") then beam (3") = 5-1/2" total drilling per hole
• Insert the 1/2" x 6-1/2" bolt from the back side of the post (bolt head on the outside)
• The threaded end will come out through the front of the beam (into the notch cavity or beyond)
• Add a washer, then thread the nut on the front side
• Tighten with a 3/4" wrench — firm but not over-tightened (don't crush the wood)

7Install left, middle, and right column beams the same way.

Each beam gets 6 bolts total (2 per post × 3 posts). Total for all 3 beams: 18 bolts.

8Measure between adjacent beams at multiple points.

• Left beam to middle beam: should be about 60" (5'-0")
• Middle beam to right beam: should be about 60"
• Measure at pool-side end, middle, and back end of each beam
• All measurements should match within 1/4"

9Use laser to verify all 3 beam tops are at the same level.

Any variance greater than 1/8" between beams means joists won't sit flat. Address by shimming beams or trimming posts before proceeding.

1Mark the first joist position at the back edge of the deck.

• The first joist runs along the back edge of the deck (farthest from pool)
• Draw a tick mark on the SIDE of each of the 3 beams at that position — vertical mark on the beam's face, extending down about 1"
• Do this on all 3 beams so the marks line up when the joist is placed

2Mark tick marks along each beam at 12" intervals.

• Measure 12" from the first tick mark, and make another tick mark on the beam side
• Continue at 12" intervals along the full length of each beam
• Do this on all 3 beams so joist positions line up perfectly across all beams
• Result: ~15-16 tick marks per beam, spanning the 14'-8" deck depth (one tick per joist)

3Cut each 2x8 joist to length.

• Joist length depends on final beam positions plus any cantilever
• Typical: about 14 feet long (deck width + small overhang each side)
• Use Speed Square for square cuts

4Apply Trex Protect 3-1/8" tape to the top of each beam.

• The 2-ply beam is 3" wide — the 3-1/8" tape covers the top edge with a small overhang on each side (about 1/16" each side)
• Clean beam top with a rag (remove sawdust and debris)
• Peel backing 6-12" at a time (avoids the tape sticking to itself before you get it in position)
• Start at one end of the beam, press tape down along the top
• Roll firmly with a J-roller, rolling pin, or press hard with your hand to activate the adhesive
• Continue along the entire length of each beam
• Repeat for all 3 beams
• Your tick marks on the beam sides should still be visible below the tape

5Sight along each joist to find the crown.

• Look along the length of the board from one end — you'll see a slight bow (concave on one edge, convex on the other)
• The "crown" is the convex edge — the one that bows upward when the concave edge is down
• Mark the crown side with an arrow pointing UP toward the crown
• Always install joists CROWN UP — deck load will flatten the bow over time

6Place each joist on the beams at its tick mark, crown up.

• The joist sits on top of all 3 beams simultaneously (perpendicular to the beams)
• Align the joist edge with the tick mark on each beam side (visible below the tape)
• Joist bottom rests on the Trex Protect tape covering the beam top

7Install a Simpson H2.5AZ hurricane tie at each point where the joist crosses a beam.

• Position the tie so one flange wraps against the joist's side and the other flange wraps against the side of the beam
• Per Simpson's spec: the H2.5AZ has 5 fastener holes per side (10 total)
• Drive Simpson SD9 × 1-1/2" Strong-Drive Connector screws through EVERY hole:
  • 5 screws into the joist (through the joist-side flange)
  • 5 screws into the beam (through the beam-side flange)
  • 10 screws total per hurricane tie
• Each joist gets 3 ties total (one at each beam it crosses)
• ~15-16 joists × 3 ties = ~45-48 ties total = ~450-480 SD9 screws total

8Install all ~15-16 joists at 12" OC across the deck.

• Work systematically from one end of the deck to the other
• Verify each joist is at its correct tick mark before installing hurricane ties
• Check crown orientation on each joist before setting it

9Apply Trex Protect 1-5/8" tape to the top edge of each joist.

• Joist is 1-1/2" wide (nominal 2x) — the 1-5/8" tape covers the top with slight overhang
• Clean joist top with a rag
• Peel backing 6-12" at a time
• Press tape onto joist top, starting at one end
• Press or roll firmly to activate adhesive
• Continue along the entire length of each joist
• Trim excess with utility knife at joist ends
• Repeat for all ~15-16 joists

10Set laser at joist-top elevation and verify all joist tops are at the same level.

• Sweep laser line across joist tops
• Any joist noticeably high or low needs adjustment
• High joist: plane top with hand plane
• Low joist: shim between joist and beam with hardwood shim (before tape)
• Small variance (1/8") is fine

11Add 2x8 blocking between joists at the midpoint of each beam span.

• Cut blocks 10-1/2" long (fits between 12" OC joists with 1-1/2" gap)
• Install at the middle of each beam span (~2'-8" from adjacent beams)
• Screw to each joist on both sides
• Stagger blocks in alternating pattern so screws don't collide
• Blocks reduce joist twist and stiffen deck

1Install one 16' 2x8 along the LEFT side of the deck.

• Position it vertically (2x8 on edge, 7-1/4" tall side facing up), running along the entire left edge of the deck (perpendicular to the joists)
• The rim covers the left END of every joist — flush against all ~15-16 joist ends
• Top edge of rim flush with the top of the joists
• Drive 2 structural screws (3" GRK RSS or SDWS22) through the rim into each joist's end grain

2Install one 16' 2x8 along the RIGHT side of the deck.

• Same as the left rim, but on the right side
• Covers the right END of every joist
• Top edge flush with joist tops
• 2 structural screws per joist end

3Kerf-cut the 15' 2x8.

• Lay 2x8 on sawhorses, kerf side UP
• Set circular saw to 1-1/4" cut depth
• Cut a spacer block exactly 1/2" wide
• Cut first kerf perpendicular to board length
• Place spacer against fresh cut, position saw against spacer for next cut
• Repeat 300+ times
• Only kerf the section that follows the curve (~14 feet)

4Squeeze a thin bead of adhesive into each kerf slot.

• Work in sections you can install within 10 minutes (~4 feet at a time)
• PL Premium Exterior or similar construction adhesive
• Just enough to coat the kerf walls — when the kerf closes up during bending, the adhesive spreads to fill
• Don't fill all ~336 kerfs at once — adhesive skins over before you can bend
• 3 tubes should be plenty for the full curved rim

5Mark curved rim positions and cut blocking to fit.

• Along the front-most joist, mark tick marks every 12" (from left to right)
• At each tick mark, measure from the front face of the joist STRAIGHT OUT toward the pool, until you're at 1" from the pool coping
• That measurement = the length of the blocking piece at that position
• Cut a 2x8 scrap to that length
• Screw one end of the block to the front of the front-most joist (2 × 3" screws)
• Repeat at every 12" tick mark across the 14' pool-side edge (~14 blocks total)
• The block ends form a "curved outline" pointing toward the pool — the curved rim will attach to those ends

6Bend the kerfed 2x8 against the exposed ends of the blocks, following the pool curve at 1" from the coping.

• Two people — one bends and holds, one screws
• Squeeze a thin bead of PL Premium into each kerf slot BEFORE bending (work 4' at a time)
• Start at one end of the pool-side edge (say pool-side-LEFT corner)
• Screw the rim into the end of the LEFT rim joist first (corner connection)
• Bend the rim to touch the next block over
• Screw through the rim into that block (2 × 3" structural screws)
• Continue bending, contacting each block, and screwing across the 14'
• End at the pool-side-RIGHT corner, screwing into the RIGHT rim joist
• The 1/4" material behind each kerf forms the smooth outer curve; the kerf slots close up on the inside against the blocks

7Measure from pool wall to rim joist at multiple points along the curve.

• Every 2 feet along the curve
• Should be consistent (about 1" gap)
• +/- 1/4" variance is fine

1Plan bracing locations before cutting anything.

• Braces go on the OUTSIDE face of the frame (where they're visible)
• Along each of the 3 beam columns (running perpendicular to pool): braces triangulate between each adjacent pair of posts and the beam above them
• Total braces per column: 4 (one on each side of each of the 2 post-to-beam junctions between the 3 posts)
• Total across all 3 columns: 12 braces

2At each post-beam junction, mark the two brace attachment points.

• Mark on the beam: 2'-0" (24") out from the face of the post
• Mark on the post: 2'-0" (24") down from the bottom of the beam
• The brace will run diagonally between these two marks

3Cut each 2x4 brace to length with 45° angles on both ends.

• Brace length (long-point to long-point): about 34" (this is 24" × √2 for the hypotenuse of a 24"×24" triangle)
• Set Speed Square to 45° and mark cut lines on the 2x4
• Both ends cut at 45°, angled so the ends sit flat against the beam and post
• Cut 12 braces total (allow a few extras for miscuts)
• Label them so you know which are for which locations

4Per A3.4 detail 02: attach each brace with two 3/8" x 8" carriage bolts.

• Hold the brace in position, angled between the beam and post marks
• Mark the bolt hole locations on the brace (centered on the 2x4, about 1" in from each end)
• Remove brace, drill 3/8" hole through the brace at each mark
• Hold the brace back in position, use it as a guide to drill 3/8" holes through the beam (one hole) and through the post (one hole)
• Insert a 3/8" x 8" carriage bolt at each end (bolt head on the brace side, since carriage bolt heads are smooth and don't need a wrench)
• On the far side (through the beam or post), add washer and nut
• Tighten with 9/16" socket wrench until snug

5Install all 12 braces (4 per beam column × 3 columns).

6Push and shake the deck to check for movement.

• Grip a corner post at deck level, push firmly side-to-side
• Minimal movement = properly braced
• Noticeable racking (frame twisting) means more bracing needed or bolts need tightening

1Confirm Trex Protect joist tape is applied to all joist tops (from Phase 3).

• Tape should cover all joist tops and hurricane tie tops
• Any exposed wood needs tape before decking installation

2Set laser at joist-top elevation, verify all joist tops level.

• Any joist that's high — plane down
• Any joist that's low — shim before decking
• Small variance (1/8") OK

3Open several boxes at once, mix boards to distribute color variation.

• Composite colors vary slightly even within the same batch
• Take a board from box 1, then box 2, then box 3, alternating
• Prevents visible color banding across the deck

4Install the first board along the LEFT or RIGHT edge of the deck (either works — pick one and start).

• Take a 16' Trex board and cut to the exact length needed to span from the back-most joist to just short of the pool coping (~14'-8" typical, minus 1" clearance to pool coping)
• Trex Transcend Lineage has grooves on BOTH long edges — either edge can face outward
• Position the board so its long edge sits at the LEFT (or RIGHT) rim joist
• The BACK short end of the board should overhang the back-most joist by about 3/4" (up to 2" max per Trex spec)
• The FRONT short end of the board terminates at the 1" gap from the pool coping
• Because this is the outermost board with no clip on the outboard side, FACE-SCREW the outboard side of this first board through its top into every joist below (2 screws per joist)
• Predrill each screw hole — especially within 2" of the board's ends, where composite splits easily
• Use Trex-approved fasteners with Trex color-matched plugs to hide the screw heads
• The INBOARD long edge (facing the interior of the deck) accepts the Universal Hidden Clips for the next board

5Install Trex Universal Hidden Clips in the INBOARD long-edge groove of the first board.

• Tap clip into groove at each joist crossing
• Drive clip screw through clip into joist below (using T20/T25 Torx bit)
• Each clip has two sides — one holds board 1, one holds board 2
• 1/4" gap between boards is set automatically by the clip

6Slide each new board into the Universal Hidden Clips of the previous board.

• Working across the deck width toward the far outer edge
• New board's OUTBOARD long-edge groove engages the clips from the previous board
• Rubber mallet tap to fully seat
• Install new clips in the INBOARD long-edge groove of the new board at each joist
• Drive clip screws into joists
• Repeat across the deck until you reach the far outer edge

7Every 5-6 boards, check that boards are running straight.

• Sight along the board length
• Measure width across every few boards
• Adjust clip tightness or board spacing to correct any drift

9For each board as you install it, measure and cut its pool-side end to hit the 1" gap from the pool coping.

• With the board laid in position (clips engaged on both long edges), measure from the front end of the board to the pool coping
• Determine how much to trim off the FRONT END to leave a 1" gap between the Trex edge and the pool coping (per A1.2)
• Mark the cut line on the board's top face — this will be roughly perpendicular to the board length, but adjust based on the local curvature of the pool
• Board length at deck center (closest to pool): shortest, maybe 13' or less
• Board length at deck left/right edges (furthest from pool): longest, close to 14'-8"

10Cut each pool-side end of each board.

• Use fine-tooth jigsaw blade (composite needs clean cut) or Milwaukee circular saw with 40T finish blade if the cut is a straight edge
• For boards near the deck center where the curve is tight: use jigsaw for a slight radius cut following the pool curve at that x position
• For boards near the edges where the curve is nearly flat: straight cut with circular saw works fine
• Cut slowly to prevent chipping
• Wear P100 respirator (composite dust)
• Test-fit before installing

11Each board's pool-side end needs to be fastened.

• Predrill within 2" of the cut front end (composite splits easily near ends)
• Face-screw through the top of the board into the front-most joist below (2 screws)
• Snap Trex color-matched plug into each screw hole — Rainier color
• The pool-side ENDS of ALL boards need face-screwing (hidden clips only work along the long edges, not the short ends)

12The LAST board across the width (at the far outer edge) needs face-screwing on its outboard long edge, just like the first board.

• Slide this board into the clips of the previous board (like the field boards)
• Its OUTBOARD long edge sits at the deck's opposite side rim joist
• Face-screw this outboard edge into every joist below (2 screws per joist)
• Predrill and use Trex plugs to hide screws

1Layout rail post positions around perimeter.

• Post at each corner
• Additional posts every 6' along each side
• Skip the stair opening

2Bolt each 4x4 guard post to the rim joist (or the outermost joist).

• Position the 4x4 vertically against the outside face of the rim joist
• Post extends DOWN alongside the rim about 8-10" (below the deck framing)
• Post extends UP 36" above the deck surface
• Per A3.2 Railing Post note: Four 1/2" x 6-1/2" carriage bolts through the post and rim/joist (the plan calls for 4 bolts per 4x4 railing post; 1/2" × 6" minimum length — 6-1/2" gives comfortable thread engagement through 5" of wood)
• Bolt positions: 2 pairs — upper pair 2" from top of rim, lower pair 2" from bottom of rim (~3-1/4" apart vertically), pairs spaced ~1-1/2" apart horizontally, all centered on the 4x4 with at least 1" of edge distance
• Carriage bolt heads on the OUTSIDE face of the post; washers and nuts on the INSIDE (behind the rim)
• Verify plumb in both directions before final tightening

3Cut posts to length so tops are 36" above deck surface.

4Install top and bottom 2x4 rails between posts.

• Bottom rail: 2-4" above deck surface
• Top rail: top edge ~1/2" below the post tops (~35-1/2" above deck). The 1-1/2"-thick 2x6 cap then sits on the post tops, putting the cap top at ~37-1/2" — comfortably above the 36" minimum
• Structural screws through post into rail

5Install 2x2 balusters between top and bottom rails.

• For 2x2 balusters (1-1/2" wide), space 4-1/2" OC (leaves 3" gap)
• Toe-nail or use hidden fasteners

6Install 2x6 cap rail on top.

• Set 2x6 flat on top of posts
• Screw down through cap into each post
• Mitered 45° cuts at corners

1Calculate rise and run based on deck height at stair location.

• Measure from top of deck (finished decking surface) down to finished grade at the stair landing
• Divide that measurement by 7-3/4"; round UP to a whole number to get riser count
• Actual rise per step = total measurement ÷ that riser count

2Layout stringer on 2x12 PT.

• Use a framing square with stair gauges (small brass buttons) set at your rise (e.g., 7-3/4") and run (10" — see stair calculations above for why 10" not 11")
• Mark each step's rise and run along one edge of the 2x12
• Cut with circular saw along the marks; finish the inside corners of the cuts with a handsaw (don't over-cut with the circular saw)

3Install stringer against deck rim.

• Top attaches to the rim joist using a Simpson LSCZ sloped joist hanger (625 lb min capacity per A3.3)
• Bottom sits on a concrete pad, patio block, or 2x6 base at grade
• Plan A3.3 requires stringers MAX 18" apart. For a 36" wide stair, that's 3 stringers (at 0", 18", 36"). For 48" wide, 4 stringers. Never wider than 18" between stringers.

4Install riser boards, then treads.

• Riser boards first: screw one 2x6 across each riser face (7 total), tight under the tread nose position — this closes the open risers so a 4" sphere can't pass (required when the stair is more than 30" up, which this one is at ~54")
• Treads: two 2x6 PT per tread (5-1/2" + 5-1/2" + gap ≈ 11-1/4" of depth) — cut from the 2x6x16 stock on Order #2
• Cut treads and risers to stair width (36-48")
• Structural screws through top into stringer (2 per stringer per tread board)
• Predrill within 2" of ends to prevent splitting
• Front tread board projects past the riser face by 1-1/4" (the "nosing")

5Install stair guardrails matching deck rails.

• Rail posts at top and bottom of stairs
• Rails parallel to stair slope
• 34" vertical above tread nosing
• Balusters at < 4" spacing

6Install pool-access gate at the stairs (if required — verify with inspector).

• Self-closing, self-latching gate at the top or bottom of the stairs, opening AWAY from the pool
• Latch release typically must be 54" above the walking surface
• Buy a gate kit (hinges + latch, e.g. D&D TruClose + MagnaLatch) and build the gate frame from leftover 2x4 + 2x2 balusters to match the rails

1Layout bench positions.

• Typical: along one edge
• At least 18" from deck edge for seating clearance

2Attach 2x6 bench support legs per A3.5.

• Legs 16" tall (per plan A3.5 — measured from deck top to seat top)
• Support legs from 2x6 lumber, bolted through decking into joists below with structural screws

3Install bench frame and seat per A3.5.

• 2x4 cross supports connect legs at seat level
• 2x4 top boards laid across cross supports with 1/4" gaps between boards
• 2x4 edge finish around seat perimeter
• 2x2 base at foot of legs
• Bench overall width: 1'-5 3/4"